HOSTELS IN YORKSHIRE DALES AND NORTH YORK MOORS

• The Dales
• East Yorks & North York Moors
• York
• Blackpool

THE DALES

This is the name frequently given to the main region of the Pennines. It comprises flat-topped mountains with peat bogs, long ridges and hillsides covered in heather and bracken, and verdant valleys mostly occupied by stone walls, green fields and grazing cattle. The main dales in County Durham and Yorkshire run eastwards. Some are narrow, some wide, most are agricultural but a few are industrial in their lower reaches. A few dales run westwards into Cumbria and Lancashire. There are villages built of the local stone, either warm grey limestone or sombre black Millstone grit, and some lovely small towns. The most attractive town in the opinion of the author is Richmond (because he grew up there), but we think that you would like it also. In general, this is marvellous country for sightseeing and walking. Every dale is attractive in a different way.

Eastern Dales

These are long valleys that start as narrow cuts in the plateau, broaden into wider valleys and eventually merge into the level Vale of York. All the hostels in this section are in the midst of fine scenery.

Teesdale: The upper reaches include a majestic waterfall and a stretch of rapids, and there is a fine moorland walk across to the Vale of Eden (Dufton hostel). A good base for all of these (poor bus service) is

A little farther down the valley at Middleton (buses hourly incl Sun), this hostel offers courses in outdoor pursuits:

In a remote location up a tributory valley (no buses), but on the Pennine Way, is

Swaledale: This is a narrow valley, ideal for hikes. In its upper reach (2 buses a day) lies Keld. The YHA hostel in Keld has closed.

Half way down, near the tiny town of Reeth (2-4 buses a day, none Sun), is

At the foot of the valley (frequent buses from Darlington on the main rail line) lies Richmond, with a superb castle, abbey, fine Market Place, rushing river... oh and lots more.

Wensleydale: This is a broad valley with a pleasant relaxing feel, served by hourly buses from Northallerton on the main rail line. In its higher reaches lies the tiny town of Hawes:

Part way down, near a beautiful waterfall, is

In the lower reaches, in a small village (4 buses a day), is

Wharfedale: This fairly narrow valley (buses not known) has a hostel in its middle stretch:

Western Dales

The Howgill Fells are an impressive mountainous-looking range of hills. You can climb them from the bunkhouse at Lowgill (6 miles from Kendal, transport available):

Dentdale is a remote valley on the western side, with a tiny town with cobbled streets. The scenic Settle-Carlisle rail line has 5 trains per day incl Sundays.

Dentdale hostel is closed!

The Craven District

This compact region includes three mountains ('The Three Peaks') which form a popular marathon-type hike, and England's most impressive inland scenery of massive cliffs of white limestone near Malham.

There are 4 trains per day from Leeds to Lancaster that pass through the area, but the stations are not very conveniently placed for hostels or walks. The Leeds - Settle - Carlisle line (5 trains per day including Sun) stops in much more useful places, and close to the Ribblesdale hostels.

Ingleton is a pleasant small town with a waterfall walk, walk-in caves, and access to two of the Three Peaks. There are frequent buses from Lancaster (but none on Sundays).

Halfway from Ingleton to Settle (buses 4 per day, none Sun, or trains to Clapham then 1.5 mile walk) is

Ribblesdale A pleasant valley near Settle, it becomes wild and open just 10 miles away at Ribblehead. These hostels have access to all Three Peaks and lie not far from stations on the Settle- Carlisle railway:

Malham is the centre of England's most impressive inland scenery: a giant amphitheatre of sheer limestone, and a gorge with overhanging rock 30 metres high. At Malham hostel you are within 2 miles of both of these. But the bus service from Skipton to Malham is pathetic, with just 2 afternoon buses on weekdays, 4 on Sat, none on Sun).

Forest of Bowland

This is not a forest but an area of moorland with pleasant valleys and rivers between. It is like the Dales but isolated from the main Pennines, so it has a secluded feel. It is ideal for unhurried car touring, stopping for short walks, or for cycling as the roads are fairly quiet. There are 4 buses a day from Clitheroe to Slaidburn.

Southern Pennines

In the more austere scenery where the rock is a dark Millstone Grit, this area is generally well-populated, but as a compensation buses are frequent. There lie the following hostels:

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North York Moors

Just east of the main road and railway from York to Edinburgh lies the North York Moors, a country of broad open moorland, secluded valleys and stunning cliff scenery, together with seaside resorts ranging from fishing villages to the best of modern resorts. It is covered with hiking paths and served by hostels around the fringe and on the coast. The National Park authority is promoting a network of efficient and good-value public transport, although it only runs on summer weekends and school holidays.

Transport

Start from York. When the National Park Moorsbus is running you can get from York to the whole park and back in a day for a bargain price. Otherwise you have the following options. Train (frequent including Sun) or bus (hourly including Sun) to Scarborough. Bus to Pickering on the fringe of the Park (frequent on weekdays, 4 on Sun), or well into the Park and to Whitby (4 per day including Sun). You can also get a train from Middlesbrough to Whitby (3 per day).

Hostels

Helmsley is a pleasant small town with a specially built hostel. Buses run hourly from Scarborough, but from York you have to go to Malton then only 2 per day.

There are 2 convenient places for car travellers to stop before visiting York, and both are also on the coast-to-coast walk. The first is a bunkbarn on the road from Darlington to Northallerton:

The second is a good place to stop if you also want a taste of the National Park. Get a train to Northallerton, not an inspiring place, and there are 3 buses a day to Osmotherley, an attractive village with a nearby hostel. From the hostel it is a short walk up to viewpoints with wide views over half of Yorkshire.

This hostel is also the starting point for the Lyke Wake Walk of 40 miles over moorlands, often taken by persons of no walking experience to prove they can do it. The walk ends near Boggle Hole hostel. But if you are not into self-punishment you will prefer the less challenging walk from Whitby along the cliffs.

Whitby is a fascinating town with narrow streets and its harbour famous as the home port of Captain Cook and now devoted to small fishing boats. It is touristy, but not at all tacky. At the top of the East Cliff with 199 steps is the Abbey with religious connections dating back to 600 AD. It is very compact and delightful to walk around, and there are superb views along the river and from the cliffs. If you spend more than one night here, take the well- marked walk along the cliffs either west or east as far as you wish, and get a bus back.

There are 2 very good and modest-price hostels. Both are sociable and have well-equipped kitchens.

For a pleasant peaceful setting Harbour Grange is your first choice. If you want meals, stay at the YHA, where the large lounge has a cosy feel with no TV ad the setting is fantastic. Harbour Grange has its own parking; parking at the YHA is very difficult (public car park half mile away, free overnight but £2 even for a few minutes in the day).

Note: Harbour Grange is also known as 'Whitby Backpackers at Harbour Grange'. This is not the same as 'Whitby Backpackers' on the West Cliff, but that appears to have closed.'

Close to town beside the river, 10 minutes level walk from the stations, is:

To get to the YHA you walk through some tiny streets then climb 199 steps to the top of the East Cliff, right next to the Abbey:

This area has some of the finest cliff scenery in Britain, both north and south of Whitby. You can have a great 2-day walk if you go south, and near the little resort of Robin Hood's Bay you can break your journey at

Then continue the next day to the well-located hostel at Scarborough.

Scarborough has all the facilities of a full-scale family seaside resort with crowded beach and amusements, but if you don't like that sort of thing you can still enjoy quiet beaches, stunning cliff walks, and a ruined castle in a magnificent location. There is a hostel 2 miles north of the town (frequent buses from Scarborough and Whitby).

Heart of the Park Many people regard the extensive moorland scenery, together with the narrow valleys cut into it, as its main attraction. Unfortunately there is only one hostel in this area, easy to reach by 4 buses a day from York or Whitby.

Lockton is a good spot to stay if you want to travel on the North York Moors railway which runs through magnificent moorland scenery, and you can stop off at some remote spots. It connects with trains at Whitby and buses at Pickering.

The Wolds and Holderness

The southeast part of Yorkshire, known as the East Riding ('thriding' or third-part) is a country of quiet sweeping chalk hills, flat meadows and a pleasant coastline. It is especially good motoring or cycling country with its wide open views, or you can tour it by bus. York is a good base for visiting this area.

Beverley is a beautiful small city with a fine Minster (Cathedral). There are frequent trains from Hull and Scarborough. You can stay at:

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