Many Shades of Green
This is not the magnificent Scottish scenery you've heard about: it's merely
lovely, but well worth a tour. Hostels are rather sparse, so you need to
plan your tour carefully. This is big country by British standards and
public transport is limited, so car touring is recommended, but the roads
are a delight, with open views and very little traffic. It is also great
cycling country, with long straight stretches of quiet road and mostly
gentle gradients. Dedicated walkers can hike the Southern Uplands Way, with
some great scenery.
To get to the area by public transport, no problem: all trains and coaches between England and Scotland pass through! However, there are few stops within the area, and even fewer that have hostels.
To explore the area using public transport, take a train or coach to Carlisle or Glasgow, then a local bus to a starting town, and be prepared to stay in B&Bs. There are several buses a day along a few routes, and scattered buses in other areas, but you need to plan if you want to get to particular places. There are a few attractive places with hostels that are easy to reach by bus or train.
If you have a railpass, you might base yourself in Glasgow or Edinburgh and take day trips along the main lines that cross the area: to Stranraer where there are ferries to Belfast, two routes to Carlisle, and the east coast line from Edinburgh to Berwick. All have 8 or more trains a day, but these journeys just give tasters of the area, with few places where you can stop.
Time for just one night in the area? There are two good places to stop, both with fine walks close by. If you have a railpass, take the train via Dumfries and Kilmarnock. MELROSE is a convenient place to reach by long- distance bus, it has an excellent hostel and some superb scenery, and you can walk to the top of a hill with a superb view and be back to catch a midday bus. Nearer to Glasgow is NEW LANARK, a scenic spot with waterfalls and an interesting industrial history.
Wemyss Bay has hourly trains from Glasgow. From here you can take a ferry to the Isle of Bute, where the main resort of Rothesay has a hostel:
Address: Esplanade
Tel: 01700-504446
Largs is a small town at the north end of the coast, from which you can take a ferry to the island of Great Cumbrae. Largs has a hostel:
Address: 110 Irvine Road
Tel: 01475-672851
Ardrossan is where you go to catch a boat to Arran.
At Troon, on the railway line, there are 2 ferries a day including Sundays and one around midnight to Belfast (2.5 hour journey).
The largest town is Ayr. This has no known hostel.
At Stranraer you can take a ferry to Belfast (4 per day, 2 on Sundays, 1hr 45min). If you need to stay in Stranraer there is a small hostel which will pick you up from your arrival point:
Address: Balyet Farm, Cairnryan Road
Tel: 01776-703395
Email: balyett + AT + btopenworld.com
To get to Arran, take a train from Glasgow to Ardrossan then a ferry (4 per day including Sundays) to Brodick. On the island, frequent buses run from Brodick to Whiting Bay, and sparse buses to Lochranza and other parts of the island.
The north is superb highland walking country, and you can stay at:
For a contrast, the south has quiet forested hills and beaches. Whiting Bay hostel is closed and currently for sale
If you are travelling by bus, stop at the fine hostel in MELROSE. For water sports enthusiasts there is a cosy bunkhouse by LOCH KEN, accessible by bus. There are 3 simple friendly hostels close to the Southern Upland Way but not really reachable by bus: KENDOON, WANLOCKHEAD and BROADMEADOWS. If you have a car you can just drive around, stopping where you fancy.
From Castle Douglas, 5 buses a day take you to:
Tel: 01644-420626
Email: galloway.sc + AT + virgin.net
Facilities: Comfortable bunkhouse, bring sleeping bag or hire bedding, cosy common room w TV, moderate kitchen, watersports and climbing courses.
A little farther north, in open country with widespread views, used to lie a small simple hostel, but it's closed!
Wanlockhead, in high country, is a weird and untypical village among abandoned lead and silver mining workings. Wanlockhead Hostel is no longer open to individual travellers.
Among woodland and delightful river scenery is Scotland's oldest youth hostel, a very friendly place, but unfortunately only open in high summer:
Melrose is a pleasant quiet town with an impressive abbey and fine short hill walks. It is easily reached by bus from Edinburgh, there are 2 buses a day from Newcastle, and it has a fine hostel, open for half the year:
Kirk Yetholm is the start or finish point of the Pennine Way long- distance path which runs from here through Northumberland and Yorkshire to Derbyshire. It is close to good hill-walking on the rather bleak Cheviots, and has adequate bus connections to Berwick and Edinburgh. It has a modest hostel, open for 5 months of the year:
New Lanark Industrial Museum
This is not a specially beautiful area, but an attraction is New Lanark, an interesting industrial conservation village of former mill and houses, beautifully restored, and a scenic walk to a waterfall. This is a delightful quiet setting for a modern hostel that occupies one of the restored buildings. There are hourly trains from Glasgow and frequent buses from Hamilton (connecting to Glasgow), but only to Lanark, 2 miles away. If you are travelling by car bewtween Scotland and England and prefer to avoid cities, this makes an excellent refreshing overnight stop.