EDINBURGH, GLASGOW & SOUTH SCOTLAND HOSTELS

• Edinburgh--The Capital of Scotland, an outstanding city
• Glasgow--Scotland's biggest city, workaday, looks plain but with many fine buildings and a great atmosphere
• Southern Scotland--Open rolling hills, 2 coasts and an island -- glorious scenery

Edinburgh is an outstanding city for scenery, history and architecture. Rain is rarely heavy or long-lasting but it is quite frequent, and warm days are uncommon, so do carry a raincoat and warm clothing at any time of year.

The centre of Edinburgh is compact, and all central hostels are within walking distance of most attractions including the Castle and Arthur's Seat, a short climb with a splendid view. Even within the city you keep getting glimpses of views across the Forth estuary to the hills beyond.

Hostels

If you want to be near everything, the hostels in the Royal Mile area, and in the New Town, are all suitable. We group others into East, West and South of the centre, but the East and West hostels are all within walking distance of the attractions, and all hostels are on regular bus routes to the centre.

Prices vary tremendously in Edinburgh; each hostel may have 5 or 10 different prices according to day of week, season, short or long-term stay, size of dorm etc. In general, expect to pay £13 to £16 per night.

Access throughout the 24 hours is available at probably all hostels except the SYHA which have access until 0200 and are closed in the late morning.

If you are travelling by car, at nearly all hostels you must search for street parking available nearby during the night, but do watch the permitted hours.

During EDINBURGH FESTIVAL (August) and HOGMANAY (New Year) hostels are likely to be booked up weeks before, and charge much higher prices. Many hostels provide packages of accommodation plus tickets.

The Royal Mile (The Old Town)

Also known as High Street, this is the older quarter with lots of interest, including the Castle. There are lots of hostels in this area.

There are 3 hostels run by the Macbackpackers company. Castle Rock (close to the Castle) is large, High Street is perhaps the most friendly, and Royal Mile is not recommended for short-term visitors.

There are 2 Brodies hostels which are owned by the same company and run as one, so if you particularly want to stay in one of them, make that clear when you book. (Note: Booking on the internet doesn't seem to distinguish between them). They will tell you that Brodies 1 is lower-cost, large-dorms and noisier, while Brodies 2 is quieter. We would definitely recommend Brodies 1 for sociability and friendliness, while Brodies 2 includes private rooms which favour families and couples who are less sociable, and also lots of long-termers. Brodies 2 looks nice but has received several poor reviews which mention uncomfortable beds, door noises and water pipe noises.

Close to High Street and the rail station are:

Cowgate is parallel to High Street and is a nightclub area, and several hostels are located here.

The SYHA, in July and August only, also run several hostels of single rooms in University residences at prices higher than other hostels but very good value for single rooms. These are generally not sociable, but in some cases several rooms share a kitchen. These are all in the Cowgate area.

The New Town

This is the central shopping area, centred on the famous Princes Street with the Scott Monument and a park along one side. There are several hostels in this area:

The next 2 hostels are in the SAME BUILDING up the same staircase. After climbing several flights you first come to the small compact City Centre Hostel, then one floor up gets you to the funky Princes Street East Backpackers:

West of the centre

Within moderate walking distance are the following hostels:

South of the centre:

Bruntsfield Hostel is close to frequent buses to centre:

Argyle Hostel has a bus to the centre and is a moderate walk to the Cowgate area:

East of the centre

Try the Travellers' Inn in a fairly quiet street, and tell us whether the long-termers are friendly or cliquey.

Based on our own observations and reviews on several websites, we do not recommend any of the following hostels:

North of Edinburgh

The Globetrotter Inn is in a fantastic location in its own grounds overlooking the Firth, with seafront walks. There is a frequent bus to Edinburgh (30 minute journey) and night buses, and the hostel runs a free shuttle bus hourly 0630-2230. You might choose this if you are touring by car.

If you want to stay in Leith, a town on the Firth within the Edinburgh city bus routes, you could stay at Ocean Hostel, but with TVs in both common areas we do not recommend it for atmosphere:

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Glasgow is a straightforward working city with nothing outstanding but plenty to see, and lots of straightforward Scots folk who will make you very welcome if you can understand them. It has plenty of dry weather, but when it does rain the rain is often heavy.

Internet facilities are provided in some hostels at £4-£5 per hour; use one of the city internet centres, they are £2/hr or less.

Hostels

Glasgow has several very distinct hostels; choose carefully, they are not at all alike.

We strongly do not recommend any of the hostels in the Globetrotters Group, located in and near Berkeley Street. This includes the North Lodge Hostel and the Rucksack. Serious criticisms of these hostels date back several years, and numerous reviews originating from those hostels either praising them or damning other establishments have appeared on hostel review sites. If you look for reviews of these hostels you will find many that are poor to bad, and some that are full of praise and give the hostels 5 stars. There is good reason to suspect that many of these are written by the management. The owner/manager has annoyed the owners of several websites.

If you like a casual party atmosphere and don't mind a bit of clutter, you could try Bluesky, also in Berkeley Street. This is in the outer centre, close to pubs and cafes. However, several reviewers have been very negative about the hostel, and have suggested that the staff are stoned or tired, and the local paper has reported that the owner has been convicted of causing physical harm in the street at night. From our inspection we don't think it's too bad, so while we would not recommend it, by all means try there if you want low-cost.

In the centre of Glasgow close to the stations and shops is a large hostel. Some people like it, others find it impersonal with its giant common room and loud TV, but its rooms are generally considered good. It is OK as a convenient place to stay if you want to be central:

The SYHA hostel has the best standards, although with some quirks. Get there from the centre in a 25 minute walk, or a nr 44 bus then a short uphill walk. It's a beautiful building with good views:

Glasgow Backpackers is not open in 2006.

Take the subway to Hillhead station and walk uphill to this pleasant hostel in a quiet street in the University area:

There are some other residences that are available to travellers only in summer (used as University halls of residence at other times). This one is in the west of the city:

The following hostel is in the centre:

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Most of Southern Scotland comprises large green rolling hills, broad spreading valleys, pleasant small market towns and some attractive coastline. You will get a taster as you pass through on your way to Glasgow, Edinburgh and the north. Maybe you will be tempted to linger awhile, but alas, the train or bus speeds you through too quickly.

This is not the magnificent Scottish scenery you've heard about: it's merely lovely, but well worth a tour. Hostels are rather sparse, so you need to plan your tour carefully. This is big country by British standards and public transport is limited, so car touring is recommended, but the roads are a delight, with open views and very little traffic. It is also great cycling country, with long straight stretches of quiet road and mostly gentle gradients. Dedicated walkers can hike the Southern Uplands Way, with some great scenery.

• The West Coast Pastoral country with resorts and sea views.
• The Isle of Arran Scotland in miniature.
• The South Coast Hills, coastline and small towns.
• The Central Area A huge area with delights from mountain ridges to abbeys.
• The East Coast Some good bits of coastline.
• South of Glasgow

Transport

If you have a car, start at Carlisle, Glasgow or Edinburgh, point your car into the area and go! You won't be disappointed. For cycling, allow several days, and be prepared to stay in B&Bs as well as hostels.

To get to the area by public transport, no problem: all trains and coaches between England and Scotland pass through! However, there are few stops within the area, and even fewer that have hostels.

To explore the area using public transport, take a train or coach to Carlisle or Glasgow, then a local bus to a starting town, and be prepared to stay in B&Bs. There are several buses a day along a few routes, and scattered buses in other areas, but you need to plan if you want to get to particular places. There are a few attractive places with hostels that are easy to reach by bus or train.

If you have a railpass, you might base yourself in Glasgow or Edinburgh and take day trips along the main lines that cross the area: to Stranraer where there are ferries to Belfast, two routes to Carlisle, and the east coast line from Edinburgh to Berwick. All have 8 or more trains a day, but these journeys just give tasters of the area, with few places where you can stop.

Time for just one night in the area? There are two good places to stop, both with fine walks close by. If you have a railpass, take the train via Dumfries and Kilmarnock. MELROSE is a convenient place to reach by long- distance bus, it has an excellent hostel and some superb scenery, and you can walk to the top of a hill with a superb view and be back to catch a midday bus. Nearer to Glasgow is NEW LANARK, a scenic spot with waterfalls and an interesting industrial history.

Hostels

The West Coast of South Scotland

Not too exciting, but pleasant pastoral country, green hills and sea cliffs, and coastal towns with good views out to sea over the Isle of Arran and the giant rock called Ailsa Craig. Best transport is by train (From Glasgow, hourly to Ardrossan and Largs, 6 trains per day to Ayr and 3 to Stranraer, also evenings). The following guide takes you from north to south.

Wemyss Bay has hourly trains from Glasgow. From here you can take a ferry to the Isle of Bute, where the main resort of Rothesay has a hostel:

Largs is a small town at the north end of the coast, from which you can take a ferry to the island of Great Cumbrae. Largs has a hostel:

Ardrossan is where you go to catch a boat to Arran.

At Troon, on the railway line, there are 2 ferries a day including Sundays and one around midnight to Belfast (2.5 hour journey).

The largest town is Ayr. This has no known hostel.

At Stranraer you can take a ferry to Belfast (4 per day, 2 on Sundays, 1hr 45min). If you need to stay in Stranraer there is a small hostel which will pick you up from your arrival point:

The Isle of Arran

For a sample of Scotland, Arran is perfect: Highland in the north with a substantial mountain, rolling forested country in the south, and a hostel at each end! You can make a worthwhile visit in a day trip from Glasgow, or it makes an excellent weekend break. It has a unique climate: mild without extremes, and on any given day you can almost guarantee that SOME part of the island will be dry and maybe sunny!

To get to Arran, take a train from Glasgow to Ardrossan then a ferry (4 per day including Sundays) to Brodick. On the island, frequent buses run from Brodick to Whiting Bay, and sparse buses to Lochranza and other parts of the island.

The north is superb highland walking country, and you can stay at:

For a contrast, the south has quiet forested hills and beaches, easily accessible from

The South Coast

The southern part of South Scotland has an indented coastline with a string of small pleasant towns, linked by 4 buses a day from Dumfries to Stranraer. If you tour by car you can explore the odd corners, and parking is free everywhere. The small town of Newton Stewart on the bus route is 10 miles from Glentrool Forest (5 buses a day) which has camping and some fine walking country and is a starting point for the Southern Upland Way. On the fringe of Newton Stewart is:

Central Area of the Southern Uplands

This huge area of sparsely-populated country contains some fine mountains, many rolling green hills, pleasant open valleys, rivers and streams, and scattered towns, castles and abbeys.

If you are travelling by bus, stop at the fine hostel in MELROSE. For water sports enthusiasts there is a cosy bunkhouse by LOCH KEN, accessible by bus. There are 3 simple friendly hostels close to the Southern Upland Way but not really reachable by bus: KENDOON, WANLOCKHEAD and BROADMEADOWS. If you have a car you can just drive around, stopping where you fancy.

From Castle Douglas, 5 buses a day take you to:

A little farther north, in open country with widespread views, lies the small simple hostel:

Wanlockhead, in high country, is a weird and untypical village among abandoned lead and silver mining workings.

Among woodland and delightful river scenery is Scotland's oldest youth hostel:

Melrose is a pleasant quiet town with an impressive abbey and fine short hill walks. It is easily reached by bus from Edinburgh, there are 2 buses a day from Newcastle, and it has a fine hostel:

Kirk Yetholm is the start or finish point of the Pennine Way long- distance path which runs from here through Northumberland and Yorkshire to Derbyshire. It is close to good hill-walking on the rather bleak Cheviots, and has adequate bus connections to Berwick and Edinburgh. It has a modest hostel:

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The East Coast

You will pass through this area on your train or bus from London to Edinburgh. The general scenery is nothing special, but if you have time for a stop, take a train to Berwick or Dunbar then a bus (frequent) to Coldingham where you can stay at the hostel and enjoy some bracing cliff and beach walking.

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South of Glasgow

This is not a specially beautiful area, but an attraction is New Lanark, an interesting industrial conservation village of former mill and houses, beautifully restored, and a scenic walk to a waterfall. This is a delightful quiet setting for a modern hostel that occupies one of the restored buildings. There are hourly trains from Glasgow and frequent buses from Hamilton (connecting to Glasgow), but only to Lanark, 2 miles away. If you are travelling by car bewtween Scotland and England and prefer to avoid cities, this makes an excellent refreshing overnight stop.

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