HOSTELS IN CARDIFF, SOUTH WALES, PEMBROKE COAST
- CARDIFF -- Capital city
- Gower Peninsula
- Pembrokeshire -- Superb coastal scenery
- Black Mountains
- Brecon Beacons -- Fine mountain walking
- Teifi Valley
- Go to NORTH WALES
- Go to MID-WALES
INTRODUCTION
South Wales is a mixture. Much of it is not particularly appealing, with a fringe of heavy industry along the south coast, and rather drab former mining valleys extending north. However there are some delectable areas, star of which is the Pembrokeshire coast in the southwest with over 100 miles of marvellous cliff and seaside walks. The Gower peninsula near Swansea is an island of fine scenery with good beaches. Inland are some excellent regions of mountain and moorland which can be explored from some small hostels in beautiful spots. We will look at each area in turn.
CARDIFF
Cardiff is an expanding modern city, with some fine modern architecture and an attractive harbour. But its traffic congestion is bad. Don't attempt to bring a car into the centre, it's a liability and you'll pay a fortune for parking. Even the buses are subject to delay due to congestion and long- cycle traffic lights. Bus routes are complex (eg: I wanted to visit the YHA, and I walked across the city centre to find the stop for the bus, but when it came it took me for a ride THROUGH the city centre until it eventually got into the route out, and it continued to be so slow, due to congestion, that I ran out of time!There are several hostels. The YHA is good, but it is 3km from the centre and you need a bus, which can be tricky to find. But it does have parking, which might be helpful if you come by car:
Address: 2 Wedal Road, Roath Park
Tel: 0870-7705750
Email: cardiff + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Large breakfast. TV lounge, other lounge, kitchen. Max 5 nights..
UK Trail opinions: 3km from city.
Reviewers' comments: Agreeable hostel but too far from centre with difficult bus service. Nearby highway noisy at night.Friendly staff, excellent breakfast.
The other hostels are all close to the city centre. There are 2 on the west side of the centre, both of which we can recommend. basically, choose Riverhouse if you want a friendly cosy atmosphere and a quiet night, or choose Nosda in which you can party into the night or not, as you wish!
Address: 59 Fitzhamon Embankment, Riverside
Tel: 02920-399-810
Facilities: Family-run. Cosy lounge w large TV, DVDs, computer games, free WiFi, internet £1 per half hour. Dining room w TV & stereo. Good well-equipped kitchen (but not many pans). Free tea/coffee. Deck. Staff very friendly..
UK Trail opinions: In our opinion too many TVs, but it's friendly and cosy, the owners are friendly and helpful..
Reviewers' comments: Most reviewers are very enthusiastic and can't fault it. Lovely breakfast. Run by 2 friendly people. Not a party hostel..
Nosda Studio is a high-standard large hostel for individuals and small groups, with a youthful atmosphere:
Address: 53-59 Despenser St
Facilities: 150 beds. Large bar/sitting area with drinks and meals. TV lounge with large TV, connected to sitting area and kitchen. Kitchen at present modest (microwave, pizza oven, fridge) but will be fully equipped by 2010 Sep. Gym (extra charge). Very friendly and helpful staff.
UK Trail opinions: A pretty good base for your stay in the city. Fully booked at weekends. Caters well for all types including partying..
Reviewers' comments: All reviewers like it, though one said: Let down by little annoyances like sagging mattress. Many are very enthusiastic and praise the youthful ambience. All praise the very friendly and helpful staff who join in the party. Rooms above bar can be noisy at night..
Cardiff Backpackers is closed.
On the east side of the centre, Nomad hostel (which we have not yet seen) is designed to be a lively place with a bar and lots of facilities:
Address: 11 Howard Gardens, Roath
Facilities: £13 incl breakfast, equipped kitchen, TV room with large TV and DVDs, pool table, poker room.
Swansea (with a university) has frequent trains to Bristol and London, and 3 a day via a scenic route to Shrewsbury. It is nothing special, but is the gateway to the Gower Peninsula.
GOWER PENINSULA
This is a small stretch of very attractive scenery with sweeping views from low heather hills and fine walks along cliffs and beaches. At the far end of the peninsula is a delightful small hostel almost on the beach (5 buses a day from Swansea, 1 on Sun):
Address: Old Lifeboat House
Tel: 0870-7705998
Email: porteynon + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Small self-catering hostel, very sociable, opens at 1700h for new guests.
CARMARTHEN
Carmarthenshire offers walks and has a pleasant coastline. Llansteffan is a scenic village on an estuary with a castle. Halfway between Carmarthen and Llansteffan is a hostel up a hill off the road:
Email: kenknuckles + AT + hotmail.com
Facilities: Kitchen, dining area, lounge with TV, internet.
PEMBROKESHIRE
While the general scenery of Pembrokeshire is nothing special, the coastline is magnificent: miles of wonderful cliffs and bays, promontories and inlets. An easy footpath winds along the top of the cliffs for 300 km, with just a few interruptions, and there are several hostels along the route; but if you are planning an extended walk, you do need to book in advance, as the hostel you want might be closed for the winter or might have sole occupation by a group on occasions. Many of them are self-catering so you will need to plan where you will buy food. There are also some interesting towns on or close to the route.You can easily walk just a small section. Go to any of the hostels, stay 1 to 3 nights and take day trips from there, or choose 2 or 3 adjacent hostels and walk between them. The hostels and bunkhouses range from unique modern architecture to traditional barns, and probably all are good and comfortable.
The area is also excellent for cycling , with many quiet and not-too-hilly roads.
We will describe the route starting at Tenby and working clockwise to Cardigan.
Weather
On a peninsula facing west, and with no trees for shelter, the Pembrokeshire coast path is exposed to whatever the Atlantic Ocean throws at it. It's often windy or very windy -- trees don't stand a chance, and the low bushes are deformed to present a streamlined face to the wind. Be prepared for rain, often penetrating rain, anytime of year. But don't be put off, as the fine days between rain are superb, and dry spells do occur especially in spring and summer. And it's rarely cold (except for the wind chill!).
Transport within area
Pembrokeshire is making an effort to encourage the use of public transport. There are regular services between the main towns, but you will have to plan carefully to coordinate your walks with your bus and train sectors. More details at Greenways
Tenby is an interesting town, nestling tightly within its town wall. Outside the wall are views towards cliffs and beaches and down to the colourful harbour. Tenby is reached by 4 trains a day from Cardiff. There is one express bus a day from London and Birmingham to Tenby and several other points in the area.
Before looking at the coast itself, take a look at a delightful area just inland which is really peaceful with walks with views over a rambling estuary. It has an excellent hostel:
Tel: 01646-651270
Email: hostel + AT + lawrennyvillage.co.uk
Facilities: Owned by village. Lg common room, lg well-equipped kitchen/dining, free tea/coffee, outdoor deck with table. Dorms which can be booked by the room. Drying room, car parking, cycle store. Bus 2-hourly 4km away. Manager pleasant and helpful.
UK Trail opinions: Excellent hostel, very peaceful location with local walks around estuary. If you need to be picked up at rail station, please ask hostel. Small shop in village, pub 2km..
Reviewers' comments: A group of young adults found it a fab place to spend a budget weekend. Facilities fantastic. Staff friendly and nice. But one found it apparently unstaffed..
A few miles beyond Tenby, the hostel at Manorbier (hourly buses from Tenby and Haverfordwest, scarce Sun):
Tel: 0870-7705954
Email: manorbier + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Fine sea views; TV lounge, dining & quiet rooms; good parking; Remote, Modern, Catered, Close to Path.
UK Trail opinions: Closed daytime.
Reviewers' comments: Bedroom really nice, reception staff really friendly. Ensuite bathroom light kept going on & off through night..
The path then goes to Pembroke, an interesting small town. The next stretch through Milford Haven has much industry and can be missed out. The next hostel is Marloes Sands, a delightful small self-catering hostel. (3 buses a day in summer, 1 a day winter). You could use this as a base for some day trips including to two islands to see bird life.
Address: Runwayskiln
Tel: 0870-7705958
Facilities: Low cost, very quiet, 300 metres from stunning cliff scenery; Remote, Trad, SelfCater, Close to Path.
The next hostel is in a tourist village well served by buses (4 buses a day (not Sun), plus 2 every day in summer):
Tel: 0870-7705728
Email: broadhaven + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Large hostel; Lounge w pool table, lg well-equipped kitchen, lg dining room w fine view over bay, TV lounge, games, lots of local walks, drying room, games area.
UK Trail opinions: Saw it in March, when closed to individuals.
St David's is a small town close to the westernmost point of Wales. Two miles away is a traditional old hostel amid fine walking on hills as well as coast and cliffs:
Address: Llaethdy, Whitesands
Tel: 0870-7706042
Facilities: Low-cost; spacious views; up rough track; Moderate kitchen, common rooms; Remote, Trad, SelfCater, Close to Path.
UK Trail opinions: Small remote sociable hostel, closed daytime.
Within walking distance of St David's are 2 hostels. Caerhafod is in comfortable modernised barns with wide open views (4 buses a day, not Sun, plus 3 every day in summer):
Address: Llanrhian
Tel: 01348-837859
Email: Caerhafod + AT + aol.com
Facilities: Owner-run, £16 per person in any room (2010), well-equipped good kitchen/dining area, lg sea-view patio, small dorms w ensuite bathrooms, lots of open space with fine sea view, new lounge soon without TV.
UK Trail opinions: Lovely location. Far from shops and pubs so bring your food and drink..
Reviewers' comments: Everyone likes it. Peaceful place to recharge your batteries. Huge modern kitchen. Amazing spectacular location..
A little further on, the village of Trefin is accessible by bus which connects with the train at Fishguard and the ferry at Goodwick. Trefin has an excellent hostel with very helpful owners:
Address: Ffordd-yr-Afon
Tel: 01348-831800
Email: oldschoolhostel + AT + btconnect.com
Facilities: Owner-run, eco-friendly. Good well-equipped kitchen/dining room, connecting with pleasant lounge. Lots of books & games.
UK Trail opinions: A lovely hostel, close to the sea. Owners are enthusiasts and very pleasant and helpful. Large book collection ranging from Welsh language to philosophy, and travel.
Reviewers' comments: All reviewers are totally positive about everything! Especially the staff (always good for a chat), the kitchen, the porridge. Good bus service, Half the first page of reviews were 100%!.
The next hostel is in an idyllic setting with spectacular views (2 buses a day incl Sun, summer only):
Address: Castell Mawr, Trefasser
Tel: 0870-770-6004
Facilities: Low-cost, small self-catering hostel, idyllic setting. Lounge w TV, good dining area, small kitchen, all rooms ensuite.
UK Trail opinions: Closed in winter. On clifftop with fantastic view over bay..
You next come to the town of Fishguard, where the welcoming and comfortable hostel in the town centre is convenient not only for the coast path but also for ferries to Ireland and one train a day to London:
Address: 21/23 Hamilton Street
Tel: 01348-874797
Email: Steve + AT + fishguard-backpackers.com
Facilities: Sociable owner-run hostel, moderate kitchen, patio, dining room, small TV lounge, free tea/coffee; Accessible, SelfCater, Close to Path.
Reviewers' comments: All reviews are good. Typical: Really chilled place w very friendly & welcoming owner; homely place.
A day's walk further on is the large village of Newport (hourly buses, 2 per day on Sun) near a fine beach. There is a YHA in an old school in the village which has a bright cheerful and sociable atmosphere. Alternatively, a km outside the village is a barn with simple old-fashioned accommodation for only 4 people, and also camping, on land that runs down to the beach and an amazing view.
Address: Lower St Mary St
Tel: 0870-7706072
Email: reservations + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Excellent kitchen/dining room. Large lounge with lots of easy chairs, no TV. Books, games.
UK Trail opinions: Closed in winter. Looks very good for sociability. Good coastal walks in area..
Tel: 01239-820264
Facilities: Very small; TV; fantastic view; Accessible, Trad, SelfCater, Close to Path.
UK Trail opinions: Old-fashioned furnishing, undecorated barn, simple accom; good for camping.
It's a long walk to the final hostel, where the path ends. The Poppit Sands hostel has an amazing view but is reachable by 5 buses a day in summer only:
Address: Sea View, Poppit
Tel: 0870-770-5996
Email: poppit + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: On hillside, amazing view, access down steps; food available; Kitchen/dining linked to common room, no TV, pleasant staff; Remote, Trad, SelfCater, Close to Path.
UK Trail opinions: Superb location, sociable layout.
At Cardigan you can get a bus (9 per day plus 1 eve, 3 Sun) to Carmarthen which has frequent trains to Cardiff and London. So for example, you can leave Cardigan at 1530 and reach London by 2135.
BLACK MOUNTAINS AREA
An area with some good hill-walking, in the east of South Wales.Abergavenny is a town with character, a good transport hub with frequent trains to Newport (connecting to London) and Shrewsbury (connecting to Manchester). You can walk from the town up some attractive local hills, and then on to the Black Mountains, and the Brecon Beacons are close. In the centre of Abergavenny is:
Address: 24 Station Road
Tel: 01873-859125
Facilities: Small kitchen, lounge with TV.
UK Trail opinions: Appears pleasant, not specially sociable, but the attached bar is enjoyed by some guests.
Reviewers' comments: Staff friendly & helpful; well located close to train station. The great people you meet in the pub..
Also in the centre is MULBERRY House, a YHA associate guest house which offers good value, by guest house standards, to singles who pay the same rate as others (£26 in 2009). It has only private rooms, it provides meals but has no self- caterers kitchen.
Two miles outside the town on a farm is a bunkhouse:
Address: Lower House Farm, Pantygelli
Tel: 01873-853432
Email: info + AT + smithysbunkhouse.com
Facilities: Kitchen, common room w log fire, common room w pool, inn nearby with meals, low-cost.
At the N end of the Black Mountains lies Hay-on-Wye, a tiny town with over 20 second-hand bookshops. This has no hostel, and has 5 buses a day (2 Sun) from Hereford, Talgarth and Brecon.
On the route from Hay to Builth Wells, (3 buses a day, 1 Sat, none Sun) a good place to stop for a night when touring is a bunkhouse with character, but close to a fast road:
Address: betwwen Llyswen & Erwood
Tel: 01982-560312
Email: mail + AT + trericket.co.uk
Facilities: Low-cost, cosy bunkhouse, bedside lights, limited covered outdoor kitchen, vegetarian meals, common room, bring or hire sleeping bag.
BRECON BEACONS
Brecon is a pleasant small town close to the Brecon Beacons, the best mountain walking country in South Wales, and the closest real mountains to London.If coming by bus, there is one express bus a day to Cardiff, which 'connects' (with 1 to 2 hours wait!) with a bus to London. There are 5 buses a day (2 Sun) to Merthyr Tydfil.
The best hostel for climbing in the Brecon Beacons is Llwyn-y- Celyn, a delightful hostel 200 metres down a track. This is best reached by bus from Merthyr Tydfil, which stops at the end of the track.
Address: Libanus
Tel: 0870-7705936
Email: llwynycelyn + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Low-cost; homely old building with low beams; kitchen, dining room, lounge w fire, drying room, shop, grounds, camping, meals.
UK Trail opinions: Homely hostel, mountain walks from door.
If you go to Brecon, there is an excellent YHA hostel, very quiet except for the sound of bypass traffic. It is not too well-placed but a pleasant 2-mile walk along a track from Brecon. There is also a hostel in Brecon:
Address: Tyn-y-Caeau, Groesffordd
Tel: 0870-7705718
Email: brecon + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Pleasant sociable hostel with character, friendly staff, lounge w books & games, TV room, dining room, good kitchen, outdoor tables, campfire area.
UK Trail opinions: Pleasant hostel, small woodland to wander round. Can walk to Brecon along field paths (3km)..
On the A40 road between Brecon and Abergavenny is a bunkhouse:
Address: Brecon Road, Bwlch
Tel: 01874-730080
Facilities: Small kitchen, dining room, lounge.
UK Trail opinions: Looks very comfortable.
At the N foot of the Black Mountain (an entirely different area from the Black Mountains!) is:
Address: The Old Red Lion
Tel: 0870-7705930
Email: llanddeusant + AT + yha.org.uk
Facilities: Small self-catering, low-cost; kitchen, common room, cycle store, drying room, camping.
Ystradgynlais, S of the Black Mountain, is a small plain town, but a pleasant place to stop the night. In the centre of the town is:
Address: 44-46 Commercial Street
Tel: 01639-845670
Email: info + AT + backpackerwales.com
Facilities: Restaurant, bar, no kitchen or common room. Book on their website.
UK Trail opinions: Not seen yet.
Outside the town is a castle that looks a fantastic place to stay. On Hostelworld they say they have a large dorm with high- price beds, but they don't mention dorm beds on their own website:
Address: Brecon Rd, Pen-y-Cae
Facilities: Mainly high class hotel accommodation. On Hostelworld it has dorm accom in a 33-bed dorm (dorm bed £25 (2010)), but their own web site doesn't mention dorm accom..
UK Trail opinions: Many B&B rooms, one giant dorm. Looks a fantastic place to stay..
TEIFI VALLEY
In the pleasant country of the Teifi valley inland from Cardigan is a restful bunkhouse (3 km from Llandysul which has 4 buses a day from Carmarthen): Address: Penrhiw, Capel Dewi
Tel: 01559-363200
Email: cowcher + AT + thelongbarn.co.uk
Facilities: Low-cost, lg equipped kitchen/dining area, lg sitting room w log fire, games room, great view, bring sheets.
